Repair leaky Faucet

  1. Shut the water off. You will need to turn the water off to your faucet. Check under The  sink for the pipes that run  to your faucet.   Somewhere along the route of those pipes  will be handles (See First Picture) turn this valve to shut the water off to your sink.
  2. Turn the handles to the right clockwise to shut off the water.  Turn the handle right to shut off.Remember  “Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey”.If by some chance there is no shut off you will need to shut off your main water supply which is located near your water meter. 
    Fig. 1
    Stop up up the sink drainafter you have turned off the water. Use either the stopper on your sink for plugging the drain, or do it yourself with a rag. You dont want anything to go down the drain, more trouble.
  3. Take the faucet handles off. Take out the screw Picture (2) that is holding them on. Use the screwdriver for this. Some faucet handles might hide their screws behind plastic or metal caps. You might have to pry the cap off with a flathead screwdriver to get at the screws holding the handles on, or unscrew a cap. Once you’ve removed the screws, pry the handles off with a flathead screwdriver. Some handles might come off easily without the need for prying.
    Fig. 2

    Picture 2

  4. Once you have the faucet handle off (Fig. 3), remove the old washer that was behind the handle. If there is no washer behind the handle, that is okay, you are going to add one.
  5. Take the washer you’ve purchased. Simply place the washer where the old washer was. (Fig. 4) Basically the hole in the washer should be just slightly bigger than the post that the handle turns.
    Fig. 3

    Fig. 3

    Fig. 4

    Fig. 4

  6. Put the faucet handle back on the post and put the screw back in. Tighten the handle until it is “hand tight”. That means tighten the screw until it feels tight without you having to use extra strength to tighten it.
  7. Turn your water back on by turning the handles under the sink counter-clockwise (remember, “Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey”).
  8. Check it. If everything went well you shouldn’t have a leaky faucet any longer. If your faucet continues to leak, try tightening the screws on the faucet handles just a bit more. If the faucet still leaks, then it really is time to call a plumber.

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Fix Your Batroom Sink Pop up Stopper

 

 

 

 How to Fix a Sink Pop-up Stopper

 

 

 This diagram should help you identify the problem so that you can fix it.

 

If your sink pop-up won’t pop up or seat properly, fixing it is quite easy’usually just a matter of adjusting a few parts. The culprit is often a buildup of hair around the base of the stopper or the pivot rod mechanism. Or, the clevis (see the illustration at right) may be out of adjustment. Here’s how to fix it:

1) With a slight twist, try to lift out the stopper. If it seems to be linked to the mechanism, reach under the sink and unscrew the pivot rod retaining nut and pull out the pivot rod to disengage it. 

 

 

2) Lift the stopper from the drain. Clean off all hair and debris. If the stopper is broken or its seal looks worn, replace it.

3) Face the hole at the bottom of the stopper toward the pivot rod’s location, and drop the stopper back into the drain hole. Insert the pivot rod so that it engages the hole in the bottom of the stopper, and tighten on the retaining nut with the stopper in its up position.
4) Loosen the set screw on the clevis, and adjust the strap up or down so that it operates the pivot rod to open and close the stopper. Retighten the set screw.

 

Time To Replace the Hot Water Heater?

There is no tried and true way to know precisely when a water heater needs replacement. Obviously, a leak in the body of the heater requires immediate replacement. If there is a major malfunction, such as complete or partial loss of hot water supply, leakage around plumbing fittings, or the appearance of excessive corrosion on the heater body itself or at the heater’s plumbing connections, AND the unit is more than eight years old, replacement may be preferable to repair (if a repair is possible, that is). I would leave this up to your budget and repair skills.

All the active parts and most of the plumbing parts–the heating elements, thermostat, anode rod, and the various valves–are designed to be replaceable. The main obstacle to disassembly is corrosion. A water heater corrodes more quickly than other plumbing fixtures because of the constant high temperature at which it operates, and the fact that sometimes the water heater acts as an electric ground, accelerating this corrosive process. Corrosion makes replacing any parts chancy, since the replacement may leak, necessitating the replacement of the entire heater. So, like a conscientious Boy Scout, be prepared for the possibility of replacement even when the repair seems simple and straightforward. So it goes with plumbing!

In most case’s, with a water heater more than 13 years old, repairs are probably not cost-effective, since the life expectancy of a water heater is only 8-12 years. As they age, they become less efficient. This is true for all heaters, but more for electric types. Modern water heaters have better insulation and are more efficient “out of the box,” so you may notice dramatic savings in fuel and/or electric costs by replacing it.
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How To Repair Window Screen

Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

  • Screwdriver
  • Screen
  • Utility knife or tin snips
  • Spline
  • Spline roller
  1. Step 1

    Remove the screens from the windows. Lay the screen on a large protected surface such as a floor covered with cardboard.

  2. Step 2

    Take the old spline out of the window screen by prying it out with a screwdriver. Lift the old screen out of the frame, trying to keep it in one piece.

  3. Step 3

    Unroll the new screen and lay the old screen on top of it. You will need to cut the new screen about 1 inch bigger than the old screen was on all sides. To cut a new metal screen, use tin snips and wear gloves. If you are using vinyl screen, simply using a utility knife will be sufficient.

  4. Step 4

    Lay the new window screen on the frame. Begin inserting the new spline in the groove using the spline roller. For this step, you will need to use the end of the spline roller that has a groove on it. Make sure you get the spline tight in the frame’s groove, while keeping the screen pulled tight. Take care not to get the screen bunched up when you turn a corner.

  5. Step 5

    Trim off the excess spline when you are finished. Also, trim off the excess edges of screen using the outside of the frame as a guide. Take care not to cut the spline or the inside of the screen.

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How to Change out a light bulb when it is broken in socket

Difficulty: Easy
Instructions

Things You’ll Need:

  • Potato
  • Knife
  • New light bulb
  1. Step 1

    Turn to off positionWe need to first ensure the power is off. we do this by switching switch to OFF position. If it is a lamp then simply unplug the lamp. If you have a voltage tester then check socket by turning to acvolts range to 200. Touch one probe to bottom at center of socket. The other one goes inside socket on the brass/metal side. It should read 0volts.

    Turn to off position

     

  2. Step 2

    Cut potato in 1/2.Take your potato and cut in half. Be sure your potato is not to big(even if your in Texas).

    Cut potato in 1/2.

     

  3. Step 3

    Now hold potato in palm with flat wite side down(skin in you palm). Take potato and press white side into socket(be sure to carefully remove any glass before you do this step). Twist potato counter clockwise. Lamp / base should come out in potato. If it does not try it again but I never have to do it twice personally.

  4. Step 4

    Now simply install new lamp( if you have a little dielectric grease dab a small amount to brass side of lamp base and do not torque donw too tight.

  5. Step 5

    Flip swith on or plug lamp back up and PRESTO-LET THERE BE LIGHT!!!

CheapOair.com

How to Clean Exterior Windows With a Sponge and Squeegee

window clean

You know when you are stuck at a traffic light and one of those people with a squeegee come to clean your window? Ever wondered how they get the windows so dry and clean so quickly? Well read on!

If you are using a squeegee, make sure the window completely wet before you begin (using soapy water and a sponge). If you attempt to clean a slightly dry window, you will make streaky marks on the window. If you are using soap on a dry window, then you really do not want it to dry as its going to make a really bad mess. So when using a squeegee, just make sure the window is really, really wet before you begin.

Now you have your squeegee in hand, start in the top edge of your window. If you run your squeegee past the top edge of the window and its not completely dry, then go back and make sure you get it all dry before you move further down. Once you have got your first dry section, then you need to wipe your squeegee down using a dry cloth. So now you have a dry section at the very top of your window, if you are really good with a squeegee, you can now attempt to dry the whole window in one motion (depending on the size of your window).

Using both hands if you like, hold the squeegee flush against the top section of the window and then in one long slow motion, bring the squeegee down the entire length of the window. If you have followed these instructions, you should have a very clean and dry window.

Homemade Cleaning Products – Safe, Affordable and Non-Toxic!

Bottle & GloveSafe, Affordable and Non-Toxic!

Standard commercial cleaning products are full of chemicals and substances that are not exactly good for your health. Homemade cleaning products, on the other hand, provide a healthier, more natural and inexpensive way for you to keep control of your home’s cleanliness.

So without further ado, here are a few suggestions that can be easily whipped up with some surprisingly common household materials:

Air Fresheners

Of all the homemade cleaning products, it is perhaps the air fresheners that are most sought after. Ammonia, vinegar, baking soda and lemon are the standard ingredients of the odor-fighting arsenal, and each has its own area of specialization.

Lemons are a natural scent-savior in any home, so keep a few in storage at all times, and not just for your salads and dressings. Tossing a slice in the grinder nullifies the smells while keeping a dried one in your clothes cabinets keeps the moths away.

Vinegar is known for its tough spot-and-stain removing qualities, but it can also help absorb and nullify scents by being placed in a platter and letting stand in a room for a few hours. Placing lemon or baking soda with vinegar on a plate adds to the effect, but don’t mix all three together to avoid overdoing it.

Ammonia, on the other hand, has a less acidic and more basic approach to deodorizing. Half a cup of ammonia generously spread around a toilet bowl works wonders for the bathroom, while simply letting that half-cup stand in your oven is enough to absorb the smells while loosening clingy dirt in the process.

Baking soda, aside from its exfoliating properties, takes a more scent-absorbing role than its air freshening peers. Take a box, cut it open, and stick it in confined spaces to absorb nasty smells. Ideal locations include the freezer, cooler and waste disposal bins. Or you could just mix it with vinegar for double the room-clearing power.

Pot and Pan Cleaner

While your typical liquid soap is enough to clean regular dishes, pots and pans have a tendency to collect a lot of hard-to-remove sediments. This is especially so when you manage to burn the food you are cooking.

The solution here would be to mix about one to three tablespoons of baking soda in a quart of water, then let it sit in the pot for ten to thirty minutes. The total soaking time and mixture density depends on the severity of the leftover sediments. Use less soda and fewer minutes for light buildup, and use full-strength if you really managed to do a number on your pots and pans.

Carpet Deodorizer

Of all the homemade cleaning products, carpet deodorizers are perhaps the simplest to create.

Simply spreading baking soda over a carpet before vacuuming is a great way to handle the smells. If you want a more fragrant carpet, however, you can mix in a dash of talcum powder and cornstarch along with the baking soda. Just make sure to let the powders sit for around two to three hours before vacuuming in order to allow the scents to actually sink into the carpet.

Surface Sanitizer

Sanitation is a major issue in every home. This is especially so when you have surfaces require meticulous sanitation, like telephone receivers and chopping boards.

A piece of cotton with a little rubbing alcohol dabbed on is the choice for plastics and other sensitive materials that will not be used to process food. If you want to sanitize a surface where foods or liquids will be ingested, then a few drops of lemon juice is the preferred choice over rubbing alcohol.

Drain De-clogger

Drains tend to get clogged with oils and other solid objects, but do not necessarily require a full-strength acid to take care of the problem when it first pops up.

Hot, not boiling, water is the first choice to flush down the drain, and making it a daily habit helps prevent oils and greases from forming up. Add a touch of salt when you want a little more oomph in the de-clogging abilities of hot water.

If, however, you find yourself with a more severely clogged drain, you need to pour a mixture of one part baking soda and one part vinegar down the drain. Flush it with boiling water after fifteen minutes to clear the drain. Pour hot instead of boiling water if your pipes are made of plastic in order to prevent warps or cracks from forming in the pipes.

Stain Remover

Carpet and clothing stains are a major pain in the neck to clean, especially if they are from liquid sources that tend to get in textiles and never let go once they settle in.

Equal parts white vinegar and water are a potent mix when it comes to stains on tougher materials like carpets, while lemon is a good alternative for more sensitive materials like cloth. Just remember to be careful with acids, as they have a tendency to discolor stuff. Never use yellow vinegar for removing stains on colored articles of clothing, especially for prolonged periods of time.

Mold Killer

Molds are an irritating reality to any household, especially in the more humid and concealed portions of the home.

Hydrogen peroxide is a surprisingly effective solution to molds on wider surfaces. Mix a cup of peroxide with two cups of water, put the mixture in a sprayer, and spray at the problematic surfaces. Let the solution sit for an hour before rinsing. Just be careful where you spray the stuff and use only on surfaces that will not react negatively to the peroxide solution.

If on the other hand you have a small area or patch of molds, then white vinegar or lemon juice is an effective alternative to a hydrogen peroxide solution. Use them full strength, apply them with a sponge, and then wipe away with water. This should help you quickly and efficiently get rid of those irritating spots.

Final Notes

There is one thing you should always remember when it comes to using these solutions in your home. NEVER mix homemade cleaning products with commercial cleaning products. The resulting chemical reactions may produce toxic and dangerous fumes, so avoid the temptation to throw in a chemical cocktail down the drain if you do not want to get in trouble.

Joe Goldfarb is a Green-Cleaning Expert with over 12 years experience in the natural, organic, green lifestyle. For more Green House Cleaning Tips visit http://GreenHouseCleaningTips.com.

Painting Tips Guaranteed to Save You Money!

paintHome painting projects still remain one of the least expensive decorating tasks that anyone can do on a budget! In today’s economy, it’s one of the best ways to spruce up a room or revamp your entire house quickly and effectively. With those of you trying to sell your homes today, painting is a great way to freshen things up and add new life to an outdated space. Though it’s an economical way to go, there are still some ways to cut costs…a few ‘Tricks of the Trade’ if you will. Listed below are a few of my favorites.

• Try to hire an independent painter and not a Painting Company. That may sound silly or confusing but you want to make sure that you have hired and are paying the one that is doing the actual work. There is no need in paying overhead fees to a “boss” or company owner. Typically additional overhead fees can run 20% higher than the actual cost of labor.

• When building a new home, the Construction Company will sometimes tack on an additional 20-30% to the painters labor quote. For instance, if the total cost to paint your new home is $25,000, you could end up paying more like $32,000. You’d never know the mark-up because it’s hidden in the overall price of your new home. Some builders will let you hire and supply your own Paint Contractors. In doing this, you can eliminate those additional mark-up fees.

• Always buy your paint from a good, reputable source. The three that I use are Porter Paints, Sherwin-Williams, and Benjamin Moore. They all offer good quality products but there is a large gap in pricing. You should compare pricing between the three and use the one that best suits your budget. Ask your painter to use one of these companies. Using good, quality paint will eliminate the number of coats needed for complete coverage and increase washability and durability.

• Some painters will give you their discounted pricing on the paint and supplies that they use on the project. I personally have worked with a lot of painters who don’t mind passing along their pricing…some will even give you receipts and copies of the invoices. It doesn’t hurt to ask if you can get the paint and supplies at the discounted cost and just simply pay for labor. There are a lot of painters out there who will do business like this.

• For those true “Do-It-Yourselfers”, go ahead and sign up as a preferred customer online or in person at your favorite paint store(s). They often run sales and promotions so if you’re patient and can wait; it’s worth the extra savings.

If you’ve always thought painting was inexpensive, try some of my money saving tips and strategies to see if you can save yourself even more on your next painting project. I enjoy sharing my ideas and solutions with others so they can Spend Less and Save More while creating space that inspire.

Everyone is always saying, “Don’t be afraid of color, it’s just PAINT!”….well now you really don’t have to worry. It’s a whole lot easier to paint over a $20 coat of paint than a $50 one :)

Happy Painting!

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Be sure to visit http://jenniferreynoldsinteriors.blogspot.com for more of Jennifer’s Decorating Tips and Secrets!


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